SGold standard
Vitamin C
L-ascorbic acid and its derivativesAn antioxidant that adds to sun protection, fades dark spots and supports collagen.
- Dark spots
- Fine lines
- Sun damage
[ INGREDIENTS · Graded by evidence, not hype ]
Skincare ingredients, graded by the evidence.
Every ingredient in the DemythSkin database gets a grade from S to D, based on the human evidence that it works and how gentle it is. Start with an ingredient below to see what it does and the products that use it well, or scan a product to grade its whole ingredient list.
Ingredient guides
SGold standard
Retinol
Also retinal, tretinoin, adapaleneSpeeds up skin cell turnover. The best-studied over-the-counter option for fine lines and clogged pores.
- Fine lines
- Acne
- Dark spots
SGold standardComing soon
Salicylic acid
BHAAn oil-soluble exfoliant (BHA) that clears inside pores.
- Acne
- Blackheads
- Oily skin
SGold standard
Azelaic acid
Calms redness and breakouts and fades dark marks, gently.
- Acne
- Redness
- Dark spots
AReliableComing soon
Niacinamide
Vitamin B3Supports the skin barrier, evens tone and can reduce oiliness.
- Oily skin
- Dark spots
- Damaged barrier
AReliableComing soon
Hyaluronic acid
Also sodium hyaluronateHolds water in the skin's surface for short-term hydration.
- Dry skin
- Dehydration
BPromisingComing soon
Peptides
Signal skin to support collagen. The human evidence is still small.
- Fine lines
- Firmness
COverhyped
Collagen
Too large to get into the skin, so it can't add to your own collagen. It works as a surface moisturizer.
- Dry skin
COverhypedComing soon
PDRN
Sodium DNA, salmon DNASalmon DNA. Most of the evidence is for injections, not creams or serums you put on skin.
- Fine lines
- Repair
A grade is for the ingredient. Whether a product works also depends on how much of it is in the formula, which the scanner checks.
[ 01 · Tier list ]
The skincare ingredient tier list
The ingredients people ask about most, placed on the same S to D scale we use for every scan. The grade reflects the human evidence that an ingredient works, and how likely it is to irritate or clog pores.
SGold standard
RetinoidsRetinol, retinal, tretinoin, adapalene
Decades of trials for acne, fine lines and sun damage. Can irritate at first.
Salicylic acid
Well-proven for clogged pores and breakouts.
Azelaic acid
Proven for acne, rosacea redness and dark marks, and well tolerated.
Vitamin CL-ascorbic acid
Strong evidence as an antioxidant, moderate for dark spots and lines.
AHAsGlycolic acid, lactic acid
Proven exfoliants for texture and dullness.
Benzoyl peroxide
Kills acne bacteria; one of the most proven acne treatments.
Tranexamic acid
Good evidence for fading dark spots and melasma.
Mineral and modern UV filtersZinc oxide, titanium dioxide, Tinosorb S
The ingredients that make sunscreen work.
AReliable
Niacinamide
Solid evidence for the barrier, tone and oil, without much irritation.
Hyaluronic acid
Reliable for surface hydration. It doesn't fill lines.
Ceramides
Reliable for repairing the skin barrier, especially with cholesterol.
PanthenolVitamin B5
Soothes and hydrates; reliable and gentle.
Squalane
A light, stable oil that softens skin without clogging pores.
BPromising
Peptides
Promising lab results; human trials are few and small.
Centella asiatica
Soothing in small studies; needs bigger trials.
Bakuchiol
A gentler retinol alternative with a few small trials.
Snail mucinSnail secretion filtrate
Hydrating, with very little independent research.
COverhyped
Collagen
Can't get into the skin to add to your own collagen; it only moisturizes the surface.
PDRNSodium DNA, salmon DNA
Evidence is mostly for injections, not products applied to skin.
Exosomes and stem cell extracts
Big claims, very little evidence for skincare products.
Gold and caviar
Luxury ingredients with no good evidence they improve skin.
DRed flag
FragranceParfum, linalool, limonene
A leading cause of skin allergies from cosmetics.
Essential oilsLavender, citrus, tea tree
Natural fragrance, with the same allergy risk.
Denatured alcoholAlcohol denat., SD alcohol
Drying and irritating when it's high in the list.
Coconut oilCocos nucifera oil
Rich but pore-clogging on the face for acne-prone skin.
A C grade means the claims outrun the evidence, not that it's harmful. A D grade means a documented irritant or pore-clogger; whether it matters depends on how much is in the product and your skin.
[ 02 · Browse by concern ]
Start from your skin instead
Know the problem but not the ingredient? Start with your skin concern.
Not medical advice
DemythSkin is not dermatological or medical advice. Our scores and checks are based on each product's published ingredient list and on openly available clinical research about its ingredients. We don't test products on skin.
Your skin can react to a product even when it has no flagged allergens or pore-clogging ingredients: reactions are personal. If you have a specific skin concern or condition, or you're pregnant or breastfeeding, talk to a dermatologist before starting a new treatment.
[ 03 · FAQ ]
Skincare ingredient questions, answered
Short answers, with the evidence behind them.
Which skincare ingredients actually work?
The ones with the most human evidence: retinoids, salicylic acid, azelaic acid, AHAs, vitamin C, benzoyl peroxide, tranexamic acid and sunscreen filters, all graded S. Niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and ceramides are reliable A-grade supporting ingredients.
How do you grade ingredients?
On the published human evidence that an ingredient does what it's used for, and how likely it is to irritate or clog pores. S is the gold standard, A reliable, B promising, C overhyped and D a red flag. See our methodology.
Are C-grade ingredients bad for my skin?
No. C means overhyped: the marketing claims go further than the evidence. Collagen in a cream, for example, moisturizes but can't add to your own collagen. It's not harmful; it's just not worth paying extra for.
Why is fragrance graded D?
Fragrance is one of the most common causes of skin allergies from cosmetics, and it does nothing for your skin. Plenty of people use it without trouble, but if your skin is sensitive or reactive, fragrance-free is the safer choice.
Does a high percentage mean a stronger product?
Not always. Some ingredients stop working better above a certain strength and just irritate more, and a derivative at 20% isn't the same as the pure ingredient at 20%. Where the ingredient sits in the list and the rest of the formula matter as much as the number on the label.
How can I check the ingredients in my product?
Type its name into the DemythSkin scanner. You'll see every ingredient's grade and its position in the list, plus efficacy and safety scores for the formula, free.